Challenges and Opportunities in Fragrance Encapsulation

J. Pluyter
International Flavors and Fragrances Inc.,
United States

Keywords: fragrance, hair, cosmetics

Summary:

The use of microcapsules in fragrance has since 2006 become a key technology in home care (fabric conditioners and detergents) and personal care (antiperspirants/deodorants) to enable efficient delivery of fragrances during the product use. The aim here is to obtain performance benefits such as a longer lasting release of the fragrance, a higher quality longer lasting fragrance (lasting freshness), and fragrance release during handling of wet and dry fabrics, release of fragrance during enhanced physical activity of the wearer, and enhanced bloom during application. As such, a key aspect of the microcapsule performance is to deposit as many capsules as possible during product application. The latter is not a simple task in rinse-off applications such detergents, shampoo and body washes where the product is meant to clean the substrate (fabric, cotton, skin). Such products were designed to remove particles from the substrate, not deposit them. Therefore, the technology to be employed for this must work according to a mechanism that counteracts the surfactant action. Another key aspect of the microcapsules is the extent of fragrance diffusion out of the capsules into the consumer product upon aging such as the shelf life and transportation in hot climates. However, it is imperative that the fragrance is released during use of the product and wear of the substrates. As fragrance is more effectively released it is imperative that the fragrance allows for an optimum olfactory character and intensity of the encapsulated fragrances. In order to maximize the sensory performance of microencapsulated fragrances all these aspects have to be dialed in to match the desired sensory experience. This presentation will cover the various approaches to fragrance encapsulation and delivery systems in general, capsule deposition and their measurement, as well as fragrance release. Examples will be shown to illustrate the smart design of the microcapsules.